To check out which stainless steel teat mould you want go to the home page, click on the teats tab and you can see pictures of all the teats by scrolling down the page. There is a corresponding mould for each teat. Or scroll down the page here to see pictures of the moulds
These Stainless steel teat moulds come with a lifetime guarantee. Each mould is hand-made by my partner on a metal lathe. They do not need any pre-treatment such as cornflour. Scroll down to see the full range.
Custom Moulds made to order. We can make any mould from your favourite teat or any teat that you like if you send us a sample. The moulds can also be used to make silicon teats.
If you have any questions about the moulds or how to produce your own teats, don’t hesitate to contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org or phone 02 66888197
T-1 T-3 T-4 $20 each
WK1 W5 W6 $20 each
P1 P2 P3 P4 PW $20 each
Please note that P4 has been deleted as it is almost identical to P3
9 $10 10 $15 11 $10 12 $15 13 $10 14 $15
Flying-fox Dummy 5.5 7.5 9.5 $20 each
Flying-fox 19mm syringe 12.7 Flying-fox Long $20 each
Make Your Own Teats
I buy silicon P35 from Dalchem in a 2 part substance, they also have silicon dye to make a range of colours.
I buy my latex from AA Fibreglass in Hemmant QLD, call them at 07 3893 2037 or order the latex from their online store. They also have locations in NSW (02 80912037), VIC (03 90163037), and SA (08 72004037).
Teat making is very easy with these moulds. You can choose to make them using silicon or latex. You can apply as few or as many coats as you like depending on the animal you are feeding. Normally I dip my moulds 3 times for latex and 8 coats painted on for silicon teats allowing time for each coat to dry. It is best to remove the teat from the mould as soon as possible after they are fully dry. Just peel them back, taking care not to let them turn inside out. For a softer teat use fewer coats. I use 2 coats for teats to be used as pacifiers.
Pour your latex into a plastic container that is deep enough to dip the mould into.
Dip mould up to end, but not covering the bottom and swirl it around to make sure the mould is fully coated.
Put the mould into a piece of pre-drilled timber to dry. The colour will change as the latex dries but the first coat dries almost transparent. When the latex is dry you can re-dip the mould 2 to 3 times depending on the thickness of the latex and the heat of the day. Latex is thicker in cold weather. The mould on the left is how it will look after dipping; the mould on the right is how it will look after 3 coats and drying time.
Carefully peel pack the latex from the mould making sure you do not turn the latex inside out as it is impossible to turn it right side out again.
This is the finished teat that has 3 coats of latex after stretching it gently back into shape.
Trim the bottom of the teat neatly
Wash and sterilize all teats before using. Microwaving and boiling teats drastically shortens their life. The best way to care for your teats is to wash them in very hot soapy water, I use Milton to sterilise and rinse it off in boiling water
A selection of teats drying on a teat mould stand